Friday, August 7, 2009

Canteens, Coffeehouses, Kopi Tiams, Mamak Stalls & Starbuckies

I started writing this entry in the morning while enjoying a coffee at my favourite cafe. It occurred to me that throughout our lives, if we added up all the hours, many of us would probably have spent a number of years at such outlets. And through that time, the kinds of outlets we visited might also have changed. I can think of five main types of outlets we would have frequented ...
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(1) Canteens

When we were students, we used to get our refreshments at our school canteens or places associated with the school, like St Michael's Canteen. For those readers too young to remember, St Michael's Canteen was originally the canteen that served St Michael's Club just next door. The Club used to have facilities for reading newspapers, playing mahjong and card games, and a very popular billiards table. The Club was closed many years earlier, and even the building was torn down, leaving the Canteen (which had become a favourite among students from nearby schools) still operating. Later even the Canteen building was pulled down, and the operator (John & family) moved to a shop near 3rd mile. (WJ request: If anyone has an old photo of the original St Michael's Club or Canteen, please do send me a scanned copy !)


(2) Kopi Tiams


The local kopi tiam (literally "coffee shop" in Hokkien) was brought to Nanyang by the immigrant Chinese in the mid 19th century. Back then, certain Chinese dialect groups were particularly well known for setting up good kopi tiams, although, of course, these days such categorisation doesn't apply any more. I always associate the kopi tiams of old with the heavenly aroma of freshly brewed local coffee, the shouts of the waitors ("kopi oh no!" meaning two cups of black coffee), the whitish marble top tables, the familiar cups & saucers with the green floral design, and the spitoons.


(3) Coffeehouses

Do you remember those? The ones which were popular during the 70s were Aurora coffeehouse, Greenroad coffeehouse, Supersonic and an outlet in Padungan, the name of which escapes me. Common features were that they were air-conditioned, mostly with tinted windows, sometimes with dimly lit interiors, usually offering both western and asian selections (sometimes with all-you-can-stuff-your-face buffets). They were also a bit more pricey.


(4) Mamak Stalls
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In West Malaysia, Mamak Stalls can be found in every busy neighbourhood and are very popular. The term "Mamak Stall" never quite caught on in Sarawak, although with more West Malaysians working and living in Kuching, you do sometimes hear it being referred to. These outlets typically offered a variety of food (bread, murtabab, roti canai, Indian rojak, mee goreng ...) and drinks (teh tarik being the most well known).
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For market differentiation, each outlet probably had its own Mamak Specials, competing on cup size, service and opening hours.



(5) Starbuckies

This category includes Starbucks, Coffee Bean, Spinelli's, Old Town and all the other more upmarket chains. The coffee chain is a Western import, although some Asian companies have started their own too. The concept is to provide a comfortable environment, where the patrons could enjoy their snacks and beverage - be in cuppacino or latte or expresso or other concoctions with fancy names - in a relaxing ambience. These benefits obviously come with premium pricing.
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So my friends, whatever you're doing now, do slow down, take a break and have a freshly brewed cup of KOPI-O ...
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27 comments:

  1. Nice aromatic post. Very tasty. LOL

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  2. We crossed 40,000 hits at 12:09PM on 7th Aug 2009. Thanks all.

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  3. gimme a kopi from a kopi tiam anytime! more delicious and value for money than those starbuck nonsense

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  4. Some more facts:
    * The original St Michael's Canteen was owned/operated by "Ah Jang" and his wife.
    * St Michael's Club also had tennis courts at the back.

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  5. I thought there was only one standard size for plastic cups used in Mamak Stalls.
    I certainly enjoy the TEH TARIK at Mamak Special. As a matter of fact, it is a universal
    concoction to savour for those who have nothing else better to do with their time.

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  6. you go to kopi tiam when going alone or with other boys. you bring dates to coffeehouse.

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  7. Hi...All

    I do miss the kopi tiam's breakfast - black coffee, part boiled egges, toast with kaya/butter spread. If anyone of you can remember, there was a kopi tiam (especially those who used to live in the town centre, in Kuching)at the top end of Gartak Street - where the "Corner Shop" is located and it served the best kaya toast and perfect part boiled eggs. The toast was baked in a brick/stone kiln fired by charcoal - how tasty was that. These days it is easier and faster by using electric toasters (some places using grill types on metal belting, especially in hotels).

    Isn't there a "Kopi tiam" somewhere near Padungan (sorry not local anymore) where they are offering "old style" kopi tiam food, usually very busy in the morning.

    In the old days, kopi tiam is a place where "older" folks (usually men) met up for social chats and to talk "kang tow", deals, land or house sale, etc. When I was a young boy, I used to watch these old men pouring part of their white coffee in the saucer and surping loudly from it. Suppose to be cooler to drink and tastier too!!!.

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  8. Some coffeeshops also had nice "pau" and "sio bi". like Fook Hai in Padungan. Also "chui kueh".

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  9. Hi Proboscis - yes, some mamak stalls i've seen do have different cup sizes (eg A, B, C) for their offerings.and the serving techniques also different. These days, Mamak business highly competitive & outlets need to be innovative and holistic in approach.

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  10. An Ice blended Mocha for me please !!!! LOL

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  11. There is a kopitiam called "Aik Seng" at Jalan Wharf in Sarikei, popular for the best charcoal grilled bun with butter/peanut/kaya spread.
    Its simply delicious and fingers licking good!!!!

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  12. WJ, the coffee was called 'GreenLand' and was located at Jln Song Thian Cheok. Never heard of a Greenroad coffeehouse but there's a shop at Green Road that serves the best kolo mee in Kuching ;-)

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  13. An ode to
    Mamak stalls,
    Amazing in their appeal,
    Zillion points - local spread the best,
    Only after you enjoy your first meal
    Never will you settle for less.

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  14. Yup, you're right Georgie boy, Greenland coffeehouse. I had meant that but somehow typed something else.

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  15. Put that down to old age - misfiring synapses .... heheheh. We are all now half a century old ... some days, I feel like my grandfather ...

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  16. the annual St Joseph fun fair used to be held at the back of St Michael's Club. it was a highlight for us kids in primary and early sec school. later discontinued to out disappointment.

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  17. Apparently Mr or Ms Butterfly is a huge fan of Mamak stalls. But to write an ode as a tribute to them, well, that's a bit bordering on obsession. Pleasant past experience perhaps?
    Yup,some do serve juices in their monstrous cups or glasses.The greatest appeal of Mamak stalls and restaurants is a lot of them are open 24/7.
    So, why bother patronizing Coffee Beans or Starbucks?
    Care to identify yourself, Butterfly?

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  18. dear HoneyBee
    everybody needs a pasttime, don't u think? no more Starbucks or Coffee Bean for me, unless I need wireless Internet access, which many Mamaks don't provide today. Maybe that's a new special service that Mamak stalls can consider.
    another pastime I enjoy is reading. what's the name of that famous online bookshop now? i never buy from there before but i hear from my friend there lots of variety there.
    Have a good weekend.

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  19. Nothing beats the kacang cendol and the specials at Open Air market stalls in front of Electra House. And the rojak, the kangkong .... Ah Mui mee sapi for some especially early mornings.

    Since fasting month is coming soon we wil miss the bazaar at jln Satok especially the ikan terubok!!!

    Missed the Kuching food la!!!

    Anthony M

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  20. Where's the bestest Roti Kiap in Kuching these days? Anyone care to vote?

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  21. Hey WJ, what about that post on the best food outlets in Kuching .. like best kolo mee, best laksa, best chicken rice, best ang tau peng, etc? Didn't we discuss starting that entry?

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  22. Ah yes. Sorry, I had promised to send some pics with accompanying comments to WJ. Will do so by this weekend as I had been rather busy and distracted for the past month.

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  23. Kuching is the home of kolo mee. And the best kolo mee these days can be found at:

    Carpenter St has 4:

    the old favourite at lauyakeng temple - take it with the chili padi in soya sauce.

    nyan shin just 20m up the street where they serve hakka style handmade noodles with minced beef and a liberal topping of tiny pieces of crispy pork fat.

    another 20m up the street is a very famous corner coffeeshop at the junction of bishopgate and carpenter st. their noodles are tangy with black vinegar. you have to queue up to get a table.

    another 20m up the street on the left hand side is a coffeeshop whose name escapes me. they serve one of the best kolo mee i have ever tasted.

    moving away from carpenter st, you must not miss the one at green road. so popular that the shop needs 2 stalls - one for eat-in and one for takeaway.

    among the shops in tabuan jaya, there's one called 668. the kolo mee stall at the back is very good.

    i am sure others will have their own favourites. pls contribute so i can go try out some place new.

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  24. Yummmm. We need a Favourite Kuching Food posting soon ... WJ can set up ?

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  25. WJ says it is on the way ... be good if any of you in Kuching could also send in your comments and photos of the best of the best in Kuching. Being resident here, I would also like some tips on new places to go for laksa, kolo mee, kueh chap, popiah, tomato fried kueh tiaw, belacan beehoon, ang tau peng, rojak etc etc.

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  26. Before I forget, the new coffee shop at Jalan Kempas called Yau Kee is very good. It has the best roti kiap in Kuching. Trust me, try it there and you'll be hooked.

    The laksa there is not too bad too. Speaking of laksa, if you want to try laksa with a difference, go to thompson's corner at tabuan jaya. the laksa there comes with clams and prawns. nice .... but i understand that clams may be a bit risky - better have your hep A shot first if you are a foreigner.

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